Jil Sander Resort Collection 2023

The creative yin-yang dynamic that Luke and Lucie Meier brought to Jil Sander is not only a reflection of their shared art and life, but also an echo of the large-scale conversation about redefining identities around the intersection of masculine and feminine codes.

“In our creations, there is always this tension between the masculine and the feminine,” they thought, Zooming in from their studio in Milan. “He’s still here in one form or another.”

The husband and wife couple complement each other with the same casual flair they give to their experiments between rigor and plasticity, severity and fluidity. They describe their process as an exercise in “seeking and finding that right pull, whether it’s a handcrafted gesture breaking something very strict, or something soft being broken by something very rigid and structured. . This game is still there.

For the recourse, their search for a symmetrical resting point between opposites played out in what they called the “deflating seam”, a turn of phrase defining sculptural and elegant volumes “collapsing” into softer, smoother, flowing shapes. Seen through this lens, their suits consisted of fitted, narrow-shouldered, clean-cut jackets worn over ultra-bulky pants, almost like next-gen palazzo pants. Dress is a territory the Meiers navigate deftly, favoring pinpoint precision in fit and construction as well as a romantic feel for craftsmanship; one example was a pointedly structured overcoat in a pale mauve, without lapels, fastened with a single hand-blown glass jewel button, and worn over a black tunic with a feminine ruffled collar.

The interplay between fluidity and structure gave the collection character and appeal, and was consistent throughout. An elongated dress of voluminous couture construction was made of delicate white cotton voile, a rather humble material; straight tunics and plunging neckline tops transform with the addition of turtlenecks or contrasting color t-shirts worn underneath. The season’s version of the tuxedo had a similar versatile approach; it was proposed as a fluid combination of a black pleated plastron babydoll and a pair of fluid, liquid pants. You can’t take away the Meiers’ sense of rigorous chic.

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